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 Post subject: Re: Garage Functionality
PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 7:02 am 
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Champion Driver
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Brians8 wrote:
BrianRing wrote:
Brian Ring,

 I see in the garage are we lost the ability to adjust ride heights, transmission gear ratios, rear toe, front splitter and some tire pressure differences on each of the tracks. Is this the NEW rules based on the COT car were they are limiting some of the adjustability, or was this just missed in the BETA mod.

Thanks Brian


I think it safe to say these features are based upon the abilities (or lack of same) of today's Cup crews to make changes in these areas.


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 Post subject: Re: Garage Functionality
PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 7:05 am 
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Brians8 wrote:
BrianRing wrote:
Trust me when I say you are struggling the same way all of us did in testing. These things are basically built not to turn. The setup tutorial I posted still applies but you will need to go a couple steps further on rear springs and trackbar. These things like a rear spring split of 500-700 (or more for some people or tracks) so you might start a setup with a 300 LR and a 800-900RR.  You can also plan on running the trackbar at 10+ most everywhere. The front springs haven't changed..........you still want them as soft as possible. Another handy tool with this car is wedge. I like to start out with about -10 and work from there. That's generally my minimum (meaning I stay more negative than that mostly)

The best way I can describe these cars is

Easy to drive, very hard to drive fast

I find they are on a razor's edge when fast even moreso that the old cars.

Hope this helps
Brian


Brian Ring,

 I see in the garage are we lost the ability to adjust ride heights, transmission gear ratios, rear toe, front splitter and some tire pressure differences on each of the tracks. Is this the NEW rules based on the COT car were they are limiting some of the adjustability, or was this just missed in the BETA mod.

Thanks Brian


The adjustments reflect the NASCAR rules ... also note no rear bars at tracks 1.5 miles or bigger. :( I have a picture descriding how these things handle .....  :lol:

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:39 am 
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Driver
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BrianRing wrote:
Trust me when I say you are struggling the same way all of us did in testing. These things are basically built not to turn. The setup tutorial I posted still applies but you will need to go a couple steps further on rear springs and trackbar. These things like a rear spring split of 500-700 (or more for some people or tracks) so you might start a setup with a 300 LR and a 800-900RR.  You can also plan on running the trackbar at 10+ most everywhere. The front springs haven't changed..........you still want them as soft as possible. Another handy tool with this car is wedge. I like to start out with about -10 and work from there. That's generally my minimum (meaning I stay more negative than that mostly)

The best way I can describe these cars is

Easy to drive, very hard to drive fast

I find they are on a razor's edge when fast even moreso that the old cars.

Hope this helps
Brian


This has helped a lot and I seem to get a little faster every time I fire up the mod.  Another small question.  I didn't see any information on shocks in your first post.  Are you planning on doing a writeup on shocks and how best to use them for aero setups?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 12:18 pm 
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I deliberately left the shock component out of the article since the shocks used by Cup teams are well beyond the game's capabilities. In real life teams will use front shocks to hold the front down and doing that in game just isn't really practical due to limitations. Shocks now are less traditional shocks to absorb impact, etc and more aerodynamic devices.

My best advice for shocks in game is to use them as you would traditional shocks and dial in comfort and weight transfer rates rather than aero considerations.

Brian


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:09 pm 
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BrianRing wrote:
I deliberately left the shock component out of the article since the shocks used by Cup teams are well beyond the game's capabilities. In real life teams will use front shocks to hold the front down and doing that in game just isn't really practical due to limitations. Shocks now are less traditional shocks to absorb impact, etc and more aerodynamic devices.

My best advice for shocks in game is to use them as you would traditional shocks and dial in comfort and weight transfer rates rather than aero considerations.

Brian


Something that might be worth testing out on the shocks.  In theory (and theory is often different than reality), if you setup the front shocks with moderately low compression (ie slow bump) and a moderately low rebound for the slow settings, that should allow the nose of the car to sink under braking and not push back up.  Then for the fast setting you would dial in for the cars ability to handle bumps in the track.

Along the same line of thinking, if you set the slow bump and rebound on the rear shots relatively hight, then that should push the back end up under braking and keep it there longer under acceleration, helping to keep the nose down and the wing up in the air.

For the ovals you would also want a bit more bump and rebound for the slow settings on the right side tires and very weak/low settings on the left side.

Again, this is theory and I haven't had any time to test this at all, so it may or may not work as intended.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 5:11 pm 
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In watching Nascar on Speed, they are constantly talking about how the COT cars are set up with very soft front springs and large bump stops and body stops. In the sim. the bump stops are limited to something like .5". (I don't remember exactly.) The stops shown on TV look like they are maybe 3". I know you guys have worked hard to make this a realistic mod so I must be missing something. Oh they also talk about how the cars are loose. Man! I would like to be able to get one of these loose! :lol:
J B Lansing


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 9:48 pm 
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The adjustment for the bumpstops is 1" max in the game. That's all the adjustment you have but that's not all the bumpstop you are using. there is extra there only it's not adjustable.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:23 pm 
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Brian I sent you a PM about some setup issues that go along with this guide. Just wondering if you got it?

Got it thank you  :)


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